Apply caulk to the back of the strip and stick it to each stud. Press it down until it’s flush with the wall surface. You can leave the wallboard off, but it’s best to put it back in place. Caulk along the seam to seal out air drafts and then reinstall the baseboard.
Working through the channel, measure the distance between the joists and cut a 2x4 to this length. Attach a fan-rated outlet box to the midpoint of the 2x4 where you want the fixture to be. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the 2x4, keeping them flush, not protruding past the end of the wood. Butting the 2x4 against a flat surface while assembling can help to keep the bracket set properly. Insert the support assembly between the joists and set it so the outlet box is flush with the ceiling surface.
If no access is available from above you can work through the outlet hole to install a specially made, adjustable fan support. Using this method it can be difficult to secure the support and set the outlet box at the proper, finished level. An easier way to be sure of proper placement is to use the method here to install a wood frame. The ceiling must be cut to do this, after which the damage can be patched and/or covered with a decorative medallion.
The wattage rating information for a particular device may be on a label or imprinted on the back somewhere. If no wattage rating is displayed, the load can be calculated by multiplying the amps drawn (appliance amps) by the voltage of the circuit. If neither the amps nor the wattage ratings for a device is known, the chart below lists common household appliances and the average watts drawn for each to aid in calculating the load of a circuit.